国内多家航空公司近年密集推出付费定制飞机餐服务,为旅客提供煲仔饭、牛排、冒菜等多样化选择,价格跨度从十几元至数百元不等1。这一新模式的推广背景是航食成本的快速攀升:三大航的航食总支出从2023年的86亿元增长至2024年的128亿元,2025年更是超过140亿元,两年内累计增幅超过60%1。根据统计,国内经济舱长途免费正餐成本约为25至30元每份,短途简餐成本在10元左右1。
航科院航空运输研究所主任经济师钟山指出,付费餐食模式具有实际意义:旅客可通过线上提前预订,航司随之取消相应的免费餐食配置,从而减少无效备餐和食物浪费1。值得注意的是,航食成本在航空公司整体营业成本中的占比不足5%1。中国航协已确认免费飞机餐不会取消1,但法律专家陈音江提醒,航司不能通过变相手段降低原有免费飞机餐的标准或强制旅客购买付费餐食,应在机票销售时事先有效告知餐食内容物和收费标准1。
Chinese airlines have intensified their rollout of paid meal options in recent years, offering passengers a diverse array of choices including clay pot rice, mapo tofu, and beef steaks, with prices ranging from around 10 yuan to several hundred yuan1. The shift toward premium paid meals reflects mounting operational pressures, as catering expenses for the three major carriers rose from 8.6 billion yuan in 2023 to 12.8 billion yuan in 2024, and exceeded 14 billion yuan in 2025, representing an increase exceeding 60 percent over two years1.
The economics driving this transition are significant: complimentary long-haul main meals in economy class cost airlines approximately 25 to 30 yuan per serving, while short-haul snacks cost around 10 yuan each1. Despite these rising costs, airline catering accounts for less than 5 percent of carriers' total operating expenses1. According to Zhong Shan, chief economist at the Civil Aviation Administration of China Research Institute for Air Transport, the paid meal model enables passengers to pre-order online while airlines simultaneously cancel corresponding complimentary meal allocations, thereby reducing waste from unnecessary catering preparations1.
The China Air Transport Association has confirmed that complimentary airline meals will not be eliminated1. However, legal experts caution restraint in implementation. Chen Yinjiang, a legal expert, warned that airlines cannot reduce the quality of free meals or coerce passengers into purchasing paid options through indirect means, and must clearly disclose meal contents and pricing standards at the time of ticket purchase1.
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